Travel Articles

When planning a trip to BC’s coastal rainforest, keep in mind the purpose of the trip. Your eco tourism experience probably includes bear and wildlife viewing, bird watching, walking amongst ancient cedars in an old growth rainforest, and standing beside mountain stream watching spawning salmon attempt to jump up a waterfall. It may include some First Nations culture and history, and shopping.

In addition to the tours already covered in the series of articles “Adventures on the Wild Side”, the following itinerary can help ensure a valuable experience.

- Clayton Falls: Just over 1mi/2km west of the Bella Coola docks where BC Ferries docks, Clayton Falls cascades down worn granite cliffs to pool a short distance from the salt water of the Burke Channel. In the autumn, watch salmon trying to jump up the cliff (they never can but they always try). A secure and picturesque viewing platform is making this a popular spot for weddings. (1/4 – 1/2 hr.)

- Museum: Bella Coola’s museum, housed in a beautiful heritage building of Norwegian log construction, focuses on early First Nations and the commercial fishing history. (1 hr.)

- Ancient Rock Carvings: Just east of Bella Coola village, visit ancient Petroglyphs with Nuxalk twins Chris or Lance Nelson, a moderate 10 minute hike. The extensive collections of ancient rock carvings are accessed via First Nations land and a very culturally important location to the Nuxalk people. We strongly recommend, out of respect for the peoples and their heritage, that you hire a Nuxalk guide. We recommend Chris and Lance as they are the only local guides who combine stories with drumming and singing. (2 hr.)

- Fish Hatchery: Located midway between the villages of Bella Coola and Hagensborg, the Snootli Hatchery is one of only two hatcheries in the province that returns more in direct fishing revenue than they cost to operate. Free tours available, Monday to Friday, no pre booking required. (1 – 1 ½ hr.)

- Norwegian Heritage House: Built as an original Norwegian farm house, then relocated to its present location on Highway 20 in Hagensborg, it is furnished by donations from early settler’s families. The Norwegian heritage is prominent in the Valley and the stories of these amazing pioneers are something special to discover. Local First Nations elders say they got along well with the Norwegian’s “until the white people came.” These Norwegian pioneers are the people whose sons and daughters, in partnership with industry and First Nations, built the Freedom road, The Hill, when the government said it couldn’t be done. (1/2 – 1 hr.)

- Saloompt Forest Trails: East of Hagensborg, this old growth forest offers a self guided tour on Saloompt Road, approximately 3mi/5km east of Hagensborg. A gentle 20 to 45 minute walk, wheel chair accessible, the trails wind along the Bella Coola river. (1 hr.)

- Bella Coola Valley Seafood’s: Just a bit further along Saloompt Rd., choose from a selection of the best wild Pacific smoked and fresh salmon – a wide selection of flavours is available including Lemon Pepper, Teryaki,. For your next hike, pick up some Salmon Jerky. Sweet wild Prawns and Halibut is available most of the time. (1/4 – 1/2 hr)

- Shopping: In Hagensborg find those “necessities” at the Shop Easy, a modern day General Store. You will not believe what you can buy in this store! Then browse the adjoining boutique, the Country Faire, stocked with beautiful bath products, clothing, giftware and tourism memorabilia. Kopas store in Bella Coola village has a wide selection of clothing, shoes, First Nations art, books and gift ware. The Petroglyph Gallery, located near the trail head to the Petroglyphs, has a wonderful selection of First Nations art and carvings.

Practical Notes:

- Local guides can be booked for wildlife viewing, bear viewing and hiking.
- Rain is possible year round. Dress in layers.

Rosemary Smart is a long term Valley resident, owner operator of Bella Coola’s Eagle Lodge (http://www.eaglelodgebc.com), free lance Writer and an expert on all things tourism in the region. Rosemary believes in the mantra, “A rising tide raises all boats” and has become the Valley’s strongest tourism advocate. Email her your questions, she’ll be happy to answer them.